hi all having a great time with my new marder but i keep doing plugs witch way do i turn the needles to lean it out and will that help ?

Can you explain what you mean by "doing plugs" mate?
I'm asking because the only reason you'd need to mess with the settings is if the plugs were being killed by carbon buildup which shorts them out.

Which plugs are you using?
What's happening with the plugs?
What do they look like when you take them out? sort of ash brown colour or black?
wet or dry?
when do they fail?

with some more info we can help you but if all you do is mess with the carb, you will probably create an unstartable r/c that you get frustrated with. If it's starting and running, for now at least leave well alone.

plugs are cominig out black and the car just dies after about 40 minutes and wont start again until i put in a new 1 ngk cmr7h plugs dont no if there any good will keep trying to lean it out.what way do i turn screw in or out the mechanic told me today but cant rember. gave me a good tip of using a wire brush to clean the plugs up and they should work again. will try it out tomorrow.
would to much oil be a problem i did put a drop extra in for the new engine 110 mls to 4 ltrs .do you think i should go with new petrol mix as i'm finished running it in now

In my opinion you are running way to lean,even if you are on standard settings,your fuel mix is wrong,sounds like a new engine
which should be run on the rich side anyway.I run all my engines on 200ml to 5 litres of the highest octane fuel you can get.
What oil are you using have you changed the carb settings what engine is it If you have been running in this heat
with low oil mix and lean settings it's probably overheating,as for plug cleaning with a wire brush you are probably altering the plug
gap as well,you are going to do some serious damage to your engine.I think you need to start again with factory settings for
your needles,a new mix of fuel and a new plug.If you reset your needles, close them very gently so you don't bend them and
reset according to your engine insructions

http://www.fg-modellsport-gmbh.de/_PDF- ... .Motor.pdf

So that's 1 and a half turns out (anti clockwise) H needle the small one and 1 and a quarter the L needle the long one.

Harry's right. I'll add a bit though.

The carb screws are part of the fuel metering system, the needle tips on them are very precise so when you screw the needles in be VERY gentle and stop turning as soon as they hit bottom. Screwing them tightly closed can damage the needles and if that happens you'll find it almost impossible to set the mixtures properly.

CMR7H is the right plug. There is a more expensive platinum one but it's harder to keep properly tuned and is very fiddly to set up. You can go up a heat range to a No 6 plug which burns hotter, but I'd beware of doing this unless you KNOW that it's running too cool - it doesn't sound like it because you're running very light on oil which also helps cool the engine. Like Harry I think your engine is overheating.

Cleaning the plug with a wire brush might not work, or if it does it will last less and less each time because it's a good bet that it's carbon forming deep in the recess of the plug, that your wire brush can't reach that is causing the plug to short out. If you manage to clean enough to break the conductivity of the carbon you've still left 90% of it behind and it won't take long to re-glaze and short out again.

Many people think these are just "strimmer motors". They're not. They're far more high performance, typically over double the HP straight out of the box before we mess with them (sorry- tune them), they have far higher compression and rev much faster.
Because of that, they require super unleaded fuel (as near to 100 octane as you can get. Some brands are 100, some as low as 96 and I think BP makes one up to 102 but only a few filling stations sell it, supposed to be the ones around the larger racing circuits). Shell V Power is 99 octane and works very well.
The same applies to oil, normal scooter or strimmer oils aren't cut out to work with these engines although a couple of the better castrol racing oils work well. Many people use Castrol A747 or one of the specialist King Cobra Racing "venom" oils formulated specially for these engines.

I hope this helps mate.You've got a great model on your hands and once you learn a bit more about it you'll love using it.

got it sorted and it came home working so am out with it again tomorrow if it dont rain car is so good it get lots of attention in the park will sombody put up some pics for me please
thanks dave

i will do if you can send them to my email address

well it did'nt come home in 1 peace need to replace rear roll cage and the clutch has locked up think i might have forgot to lock tight somthing will have it sorted in no time i hope.
sorry can only send pics by phone

I just posted an idea but it doesn't work, sorry.

Can't you send from your phone to somewhere like photobucket or flickr.
Alternatively I KNOW you can post direct from phone to ****, and you can link to **** photos on here (make sure you set the photos to "public" else nobody will be able to view them.

It's long winded - easier if you're already on **** for sure, but do-able.